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14 Jun 2013

Grandma shorts and Peplum top

I have a problem with shorts.
It's not fare. I do love shorts, it's almost all I wear during summer. So why can't I get the fit right? Let me show you:


This is my inspiration. An elegant short with pleats and pockets, I love pockets. The only change I had to make was the length. I very often have to go through the University, and it seems that the students find my shorts a bit, well short! Hence the staring. I don't really mind, but, I thought that maybe I could wear something that shouted less beach and more city.
So I made my shorts longer and it turned out like that:

If I hear one of you laugh... They are horrible!! Actually the fit is great, very comfy, but the length, the length, berk!

So, off to the sewing machine. I've shortened them and made an adorable top to go with them:

Much better no? The shorts are still a bit too long for my taste, but the top is perfect.
Can you believe I don't own any peplum? It seems that everyone who loves clothes and fashion has one.
I made it with a marvellous Liberty cotton print.

I love Liberty fabrics. They are a bit pricey compared to what I usually buy, but La droguerie in Rennes has a huge collection and proposes little bits of fabric, 70 x 150 cm, that I can hardly resit to.
I had to line it. I had in my stash some very light cotton in a bright pinkish orange:

I should remember to buy some more. I was so happy with myself for buying it! It definitely a good thing to have a basic stash of lining, thread and zippers when you live a bit far from your favourite fabric store. Caroline of Diary of a sewing fanatic who is an amazing sewist, has the biggest stash ever, and she is so right. When she wants to make something, she can, because she already has everything home. you can read all about her planning here.

As usual I made all the patterns for this outfit (I'm pretty sure no one wants my shorts pattern :-). There are a few options for the peplum part. It can be pleated, gathered, flounced. Ouf, that's a lot of options,witch is great, it means you can choose whatever style you prefer.

I chose to make it simple, no pleats, because of the loud print of my fabric.
The pattern is quick to make:

 First I cut my pattern at the waist to create the peplum.

 Then I divided it in three parts, creating two new darts, and allocated the width of the original dart between the three new ones (there are 2 in the middle, and one on the right side).

 Then I cut the pattern.

Closed the darts, and prolonged in a straight line the left side of panel 1.

There it is, the peplum. It is also the base for a moderately flouncy skirt, you just have to prolong your  middle front and side to the length of your choice.

Isn't this lining pretty? You can see in this picture the two darts on the front bodice. It's the first time I do that. It really gives a good fit, very tight, I like it.

I was concerned with how this would turn out after I wash it. I thought maybe I should do something to help me with the ironing. You know, so that the lining would stay in place and that I would not have to fight with it so that it would not peek on the outside. So while watching The Borgias, I hand picked around the neckline and armholes. But just on the inside. I don't like it when too much is happening on a garment.

I used a clever technique to sew by machine my lining to my the rest of the garment, I am very proud of it, it's really clean. Look, admire! 

I'll explain it to you later. Come on, my holidays are coming, I don't have so much time left to made me an awesome wardrobe for this summer!!

Lapped zipper. Because, I don't know. I don't have the right foot for an invisible zipper. And every body seems to make those, so, why not hey? It's nice. I'm such a copy cat. Just a very very late one :-)

My photographer seems to finally have mastered the non blurry pictures, next step, taking more!! Who does he think I am? Kate Moss? I need a tone of pictures taken to have one where I stand straight, smile and most important where you can see the clothes!!

 Haa, straighten me this top!!

flounce baby baby, flounce!

joli !!

So far, I have not had many occasions to wear those. But I believe that when I'll go back to work this peplum will make many appearances, with a nice straight skirt or some very tight white pants. And for the shorts, well, a good five centimetres less and they will look exactly like those Alberta Ferretti ones. I guess that the students at the university will have to bare with their not very clothed neighbour! Na, who cares? Long shorts sucks!!


Next, some more short shorts and print and maybe some sun, maybe...

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